ZLÍN - Alpine skiing has experienced a big boom in recent years. Mountain tourism combined with downhill runs in fresh powder attracts more and more people. Ascent belts, or skins, largely decide whether a hike in the ski alps will be a great experience for you or a horror journey where you will count every meter. And it's not just about their correct selection, but also their subsequent care. The days when the Vikings attached seal belts under their skis to make it easier to move in the snow are long gone. Seal belt production was discontinued sometime around 1930. Today, climbing belts are made from mohair goat hair. Some skins are purely natural, others are made in combination with synthetic material. Mohair-nylon belts are more durable and hold better when climbing than pure natural ones. If you invest in quality skins, they will last you 60 to 100 climbs, depending on the difficulty of the terrain.
The right choice is the basis
To enjoy ski mountaineering, you need to reach for the right skins. In this regard, it is best to rely on professionals, at AVEX SKI we are happy to advise you. It depends on many circumstances - how experienced you are, whether you will be moving mainly on well-trodden tracks or in open, ungroomed terrain, what kind of skis you have and how long the hikes are planned.
Adhesive or macromolecular?
There are two types of ski alpine skins - adhesive and macromolecular. Each type has its pluses and minuses. The adhesive on the adhesive tapes does need to be renewed from time to time, but thanks to this it will last longer. Macromolecular strips work even at very low temperatures, you don't need a protective film to store them, and they can be washed in a washing machine at a low temperature. But after time, the macromolecular layer in the edge area can separate from the bands, which means their definitive end. Another alternative is a hybrid adhesive. Holds well and leaves no marks. You only need water to remove dirt.
Think back wheels
You never know what will happen during your hike. You can damage the strips somewhere or they simply stop sticking in the worst case scenario. It's always a good idea to have an adhesive recovery spray with you just in case. It is easy to handle and you can handle it even in the field. Another alternative is to carry a spare pair of skins. But keep it somewhere warm, for example under a jacket.
How and when to wear belts
In order for the strips to stick well, they must be glued dry and should be at room temperature. The skis may be cold outside, but the slide must be dry and clean. It is ideal to stick the belts just before the hike.
When you don't need the strips, fold them in half with a mesh between the adhesive surfaces and store in the original packaging.
After the hike, it is necessary to dry the skins well. If the glue is wet, you can dry the strips for a short time even in the unglued state, but only for the necessary time. Dust that would sit on the adhesive surface for a long time would degrade the skins. Avoid too high temperatures and direct sunlight when drying. Let the strips dry, for example draped over a chair, ideally folded in half on a net.
Careful care pays off
You have to take good care of the climbing belts, otherwise you might end up with snow sticking to them. Do a little test and pour some water on the belts before hiking. If drops form on the belts, everything is fine. If not, treat them with an impregnating spray.
After returning, remove gross debris such as needles and such from them. Do this while the strips are wet. Once they heat up, it won't work anymore.
If the skins no longer stick well, restore the adhesive layer using a special product.
Never leave them on your skis when you return, but carefully fold them together and put a protective net between them. If the glue were to stick together, it could ruin the glass. Not to mention the complicated ungluing.
Correct shape
In order for the belts to work well, you need to take care of their correct shape. Sometimes you have to adjust the belts a little. Their width should be 4 to 6 mm less than the skis. The edges must remain free. At the end of the ski, it is necessary to maintain a free space between the foot and the belt of at least 8 to 10 mm. There are special cutting sets for adjusting the strips, but you can also use a folding knife.
For better sliding, the belts can be lubricated with hard waxes or spray. If possible, do not wax skins on skis. In this way, you avoid the problem that the glue will remain on the slide after the applied pressure.